Applying shadow and eyeliner isn’t just about rocking the latest trends, it’s about understanding your eye shape too. Whether your eyes are deep set, close set or wide set, check out these tips to make the best of your makeup application.
Almond eyes are the ideal shape to work with because you can do almost anything with them. “You always want to take eyeliner from the inside corner, past the outside corner, wing it–just to draw attention to the beauty of that eye shape,” said makeup artist Susan Posnick. Her other tip is to use color eyeshadow on the top lid, as this will help open up the eye.
Deep Set Eyes
The goal with deep set eyes is to help pop them open with light colors. “Keep your light color on the lid so that you’re bringing the eye forward and keeping it open,” Susan said. “You could also apply a highlighting arch close to the lash line and use a warm color under the brow bone” to create a multi-dimensional look. Lastly, use a thin smudged line close to the lash line to make lashes look longer.
Close Set Eyes
The biggest trick with close set eyes it to keep the lightest colors on the inner corner of your eye. “You want to graduate your color from light to deep, going from inside to outside,” Susan said. “This is going to give the illusion that the eyes are further apart.” When it comes to liner, only swipe it across two-thirds of your eye, like Ginnifer Goodwin did, because it helps eyes look further apart.
Wide Set Eyes
According to Susan, who’s applied shadow to models and celebrities everywhere, wide set eyes are the easiest eyes to work with. You can line them anyway you like, much like an almond-shaped eye. “Most people are afraid of deeper color in the inside corner, but you can do that with a wide set eye,” Susan said. “It can make the nose look more angular and interesting.”
A hooded eye is where you can barely see the lid, like Blake Lively’s eyes. With this shape, start by applying your warmer, contouring color on the base of your brow bone and blend it up to the eyebrow. Then take your lightest color right up underneath the brow, to create a shape. Lastly, apply that same light color, starting on your lid, and sweeping vertically. “With a hooded eye, people see your eyes horizontally,” Susan said. “When you apply shadow vertically you’re opening up the eyes.”
With a prominent eye-shape, sometimes known as a bulging eyes, it’s best to stick to nudes and neutrals, Susan said. “You’re trying to softly recede a prominent eye, but if you go too dark it’s going to look too obvious, and if you go too light it’s going to look more bulging.” If you’re using bright colors, apply them below your bottom lashes so you’re creating a shift of focus. Susan also recommends skipping eyeliner and opting for false lashes instead. “When you have longer lashes, it will set the eye back.”
Droopy eyes are when the outer corners of the eyes pull down–something that happens frequently with hooded eyes and in older women. “Keep the outside of the eye extra light, so the focus is upward,” Susan said. “With liner, I like to really extend it up and out, creating a cat eye of sorts, so that outside corner is pulled away from the eye completely and lifts it up.”